Great Dane - Section


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FAINOMENON

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FCI-Standard N° 235


GREAT DANE


(Deutsche Dogge)



TRANSLATION : Mrs. C. Seidler, revised by Mrs R. Sporre-Willes and E. Peper.


ORIGIN : Germany.

DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD : 13.03.2001.

UTILIZATION : Companion, watch- and guard dog.

CLASSIFICATION F.C.I. : Group 2 Pinscher and Schnauzer –
Molossoid breeds – Swiss
Mountain and Cattle Dogs
and other breeds.
Section 2.1 Molossoid breeds, Mastiff
type.
Without working trial.

BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY : As forerunners of the present day Great Dane, one must look at the old “Bullenbeisser” (Bulldog) as well as the « Hatz-and Saurüden » (Hunting and wild boar hounds), which were midway between the strong Mastiff of English type and the fast, handy Greyhound. The term Dogge was at first understood to mean a large, powerful dog, not of any particular breed. Later, particular names such as Ulmer Dogge , English Dogge, Great Dane, Hatzrüde (Hunting Dog), Saupacker (boarfinder) and Grosse Dogge (Great Dogge), classified these dogs according to colour and size.
In the year 1878 a Committee of seven was formed in Berlin, consisting of active breeders and judges with Dr. Bodinus in the chair, which made the decision to classify all the forenamed varieties as « Deutsche Doggen » (Great Danes). Thus the foundation was laid for the breeding of a separate German breed.
In the year 1880, on the occasion of a show in Berlin, the first standard for the Deutsche Dogge was laid down. This standard has been taken care of since the year 1888 by the “Deutsche Doggen Club 1888 e.V.” (German Doggen Club, registered Club 1888 and frequently been revised over the years. The present Standard meets the requirements of the F.C.I.

GENERAL APPEARANCE : The Great Dane in his noble appearance combines a large, powerful well constructed body with pride, strength and elegance. By substance together with nobility, harmonious appearance, well proportioned outlines, as well as a specially expressive head, the Great Dane strikes the onlooker as a noble statue. He is the Appolo amongst all breeds.

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS : Almost square in build, this applies particularly to males. The length of the body (point of sternum to point of buttocks) should not exceed height at withers in dogs by more than 5%, in bitches by more than 10%.

BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT : Friendly, loving and devoted to his owners, specially to the children. Reserved towards strangers. Required is a confident, fearless, easily tractable, docile companion and family dog with high resistance to provocation and without aggression.
 


FAINOMENON

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HEAD

CRANIAL REGION :
Skull : In harmony with the general appearance. Long, narrow, distinct, full of expression. Finely chiselled, specially under the eyes. Superciliary ridges well developed but not protruding. The distance from tip of nose to stop and from stop to the lightly defined occipital bone should be as equal as possible. The upper lines of muzzle and skull should run parallel. The head must appear narrow seen from the front with bridge of nose as broad as possible. Cheek muscles only slightly defined and in no way protruding.
Stop : Clearly defined.

FACIAL REGION :
Nose : Well developed, rather broad than round with large nostrils. Must be black with the exception of harlequins (white with black patches). In these a black nose is desired but a butterfly nose (black with pink patches) or flesh coloured nose is tolerated. In blue dogs the colour of the nose is anthracite (diluted black).
Muzzle : Deep and as rectangular as possible. Well defined corners of lips. Dark pigmented lips. In harlequins not totally pigmented or flesh coloured lips are tolerated.
Jaws/Teeth : Well developed broad jaws. Strong sound and complete scissor bite (42 teeth according to the dentition formula).
Eyes : Of medium size with lively friendly intelligent expression. As dark as possible, almond shaped with close fitting lids. In blue dogs slightly lighter eyes are tolerated. In harlequins light eyes or two differently coloured eyes are to be tolerated.
Ears : Naturally pendant, set on high, of medium size, front edges lying close to cheeks.

NECK : Long, clean, muscular. Well formed set on, tapering slightly towards the head, with arched neckline. Carried upright but inclined slightly forward.

BODY :
Withers : The highest point of the strong body. It is formed by the points of the shoulder blades which extend beyond the spinal processes.
Back : Short and firm, in almost straight line falling away imperceptibly to the rear.
Loins : Slightly arched, broad, strongly muscled.
Croup : Broad, well muscled. Sloping slightly from hipbone to tail set, imperceptibly merging into the tailset.
Chest : Reaching to the elbows. Well sprung ribs, reaching far back. Chest of good width with marked forechest.
Underline and belly : Belly well tucked up towards rear, forming a nicely curved line with the underside of the brisket.

TAIL : Reaching to the hocks. Set on high and broad, tapering evenly towards tip. In repose hanging down with natural curve. When dog is alert or moving, carried slightly sabre-like but not markedly above the backline. Bristle hair on tail undesirable.

LIMBS

FOREQUARTERS :
Shoulders : Strongly muscled. The long, slanting shoulder blade forms an angle of 100 to 110 degrees with the upper arm.
Upper arm : Strong and muscular, close fitting, should be slightly longer than the shoulder blade.
Elbows : Turned neither in nor out.
Forearm : Strong, muscular. Seen from front and side, completely straight.
Carpus : Strong, firm, only slightly standing out from the structure of the forearm.
Pastern : Strong, straight when seen from the front, seen from the side, barely slanting forwards.
Front feet : Rounded, well arched, well-knit toes (cat feet). Nails short, strong and as dark as possible.

HINDQUARTERS : The whole skeleton is covered by strong muscles which make the croup, hips and upper thighs appear broad and rounded. The strong well angulated hind legs, seen from behind, are set parallel to the front legs.
Upper thigh : Long, broad, very muscular.
Stifles : Strong, positioned almost vertically under the hip joint.
Lower thigh : Long, of approximately the same length as the upper thigh. Well muscled.
Hocks : Strong, firm, turning neither in nor out.
Metatarsus : Short, strong, standing almost vertical to the ground.
Hind feet : Rounded, well arched, well-knit (cat feet). Nails short, strong and as dark as possible.

GAIT / MOVEMENT : Harmonious, lithe, ground covering, slightly springy. Legs must be parallel in movement coming and going.

SKIN : Tight fitting. In solid colours, well pigmented. In harlequins, the distribution of pigment mainly corresponds to the markings.

COAT

HAIR : Very short, dense, smooth and close lying, glossy.

COLOUR : The Great Dane is bred in three separate colour varieties: Fawn and brindle, harlequin and black, and blue.
· Fawn : Light gold fawn to deep gold fawn. Black mask desired. Small white marks on chest and toes undesirable.
· Brindle : Basic colours, light to deep gold fawn with black stripes as regular and clearly defined as possible, running with the direction of the ribs. Black mask desired. Small white markings on chest and toes are undesirable.
· Harlequin (white with black splashed patches) : Basic colour pure white, preferably with no ticking. Pure black patches well distributed all over the body, having the appearance of being torn. Grey or brownish patches undesirable
· Black : Jet black, white markings permitted. Included here are « Manteltiger » in which the black covers the body like a coat (“mantel”) or blanket and muzzle, throat, chest, belly, legs and tip of tail may be white. Also dogs with basic white colour and large black patches so called “Plattenhunde”.
· Blue : Pure steel blue, white markings on chest and feet permitted.

HEIGHT :
Height at withers : Dogs at least 80 cm,
Bitches at least 72 cm.
 


FAINOMENON

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FAULTS : Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
· General appearance : Lack of male or female characteristics, lack of balance, too light, too coarse in built.
· Temperament : Lacking self-confidence, nervous, easily provoked.
· Head : Lines of head not parallel, apple head, wedge shaped head, too little stop; too prominent cheek muscles.
· Muzzle : Pointed, lacking flews, lips too pendulous. Bridge of nose concave (dish shaped), convex (roman nose), falling away in front part (eagle nose).
· Jaws/Teeth : Any deviation from a complete set of teeth (only the missing of both PM1 in the lower jaw may be tolerated). Irregular position of individual incisors as long as the bite remains otherwise correct), teeth too small.
· Eyes : Slack lids, haw too red. Light, piercing, amber coloured eyes. Wall eyes or differently coloured eyes in all solid coat colours. Eyes too wide apart or slit eyes. Eyes protruding or too deeply set.
· Ears : Set on too high or too low. Standing off from the sides of the head or flat lying.
· Neck : Short thick neck, ewe neck, throatiness or excess of dewlap.
· Back : Sway back, roach back. Too long in back. Topline rising towards rear.
· Croup : Falling away steeply or completely flat.
· Tail : Too thick, too long or too short, set on too low or too highly carried above the back line. Hook tail or curled tail as well as tail carried sideways. Tail which is damaged, thickened at the tip or has been docked.
· Ribcage : Flat or barrel-shaped ribs. Lack of width or depth of chest. Too strongly protruding breastbone.
· Lower line : Belly line not sufficiently tucked up. Teats not sufficiently retracted.
· Forelegs : Insufficient angulation. Light bone, weak muscles. Stance not vertical.
· Shoulders : Loose or loaded. Upright shoulder blade.
· Elbows : Loose, turning in or out.
· Forearm : Bent, enlarged above pastern.
· Pastern : Enlarged, markedly weak or knuckling over.
· Metacarpus : Too sloping or too upright.
· Hindquarters : Too much or too little angulation. Cow hocked, close together or open hocked when standing.
· Hocks : Exaggerated large or unstable.
· Feet : Flat, splayed, long. Dewclaws.
· Gait/Movement : Covering too little ground, lack of freedom in action. Frequent or constant pacing. Lack of co-ordination between front and hind movement.
· Coat : Double coat (coarse, short coat), dull coat.
· Colour :
- In fawn : Grey fawn, blue fawn, isabella (cream) or sooty fawn
colour.
- In brindles : Basic colour silver blue or isabella. Washed-out
streaks.
- In harlequins : Blue-grey ticked basic colour.
Large fawn-grey or blue-grey parts in the patches.
- In blacks : Fawn, brown or blue-black colour.
- In blues: Fawn or black-blue colour.

SERIOUS FAULTS :
· Temperament : Shyness.
· Jaws/Teeth : Pincer bite.
· Eyes : Ectropion, entropion.
· Tail : Kinky tail.

ELIMINATING FAULTS :
· Temperament : Aggressiveness, fear-biting.
· Nose : Liver coloured; split nose.
· Jaws/Teeth : Overshot, undershot, wry mouth.
· Colour : Fawn or brindle dogs with white blaze, white collar, white feet or socks and white tip of tail.
Blue dogs with white blaze, white collar, white feet or socks or white tip of tail.
Harlequin dogs : White without any black (albinos), deaf. So called Porcelain tigers (dogs that show predominantly blue, grey, fawn or brindle patches), so called “Grautiger” (dogs that have a basic grey colour with black patches).
· Height : Below minimum height.

N.B. : Male animals should have two apparently normally developed testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
 


FAINOMENON

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11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
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The Great Dane - by Maria Ginala
The Great Dane is an ancient breed (originally a hunting and war dog, nowadays companion and family watchdog) that belongs to the Working Group of dogs as classified by the AKC & TKC, and the 2nd Group, Molossoid section under the F.C.I. In built somewhere between the mastiff and the greyhound, this type of dog was already known since ancient times in Greece, at least since the reign of Alexander the Great; the variety was later on further developed in other parts of Europe as Great Dane, Grand Danois, Danische Dogge, Deutsche Dogge, Dogue Allemand or Alano (the latter name used in Italy, Spain and other Latin-speaking countries). Always associated with nobility as a big-game hunter and palatial companion, the breed was greatly admired, cultivated and cherished for its size, beauty, intelligence and bravery on the field, as a hunter or war dog.

Characterized by gigantic size, aristocratic demeanour & biddable temperament, qualities that earned him the epithet gentle giant, the Great Dane also possesses the classic proportions and beauty for which he was rightfully named the Apollo of Dogs. This is a dog that, although grand by any standard, standing over 30 inches (90 cm) in height at the withers and exceeding 100 lbs. (60 kilos) in weight, can easily adapt to living even in a small apartment with grace and ease, as he is truly and fittingly a house dog, definitely more suitable to live indoors than other large dogs, because he is clean in habits, calm, gentle and sensible in disposition. The Dane is not only aware of his own size, and so graceful in movement that is much less noticeable than a far smaller dog when he or she manoeuvres around the house, but is also very flexible; even a fully-grown Dane will easily curl up on a moderately-sized armchair like a cat. A friend of mine used to drive a Mini Cooper with his huge brindle male Dane snoozing on the passenger seat, so neatly tucked in that there was even room to spare!

Great Dane puppies are not destructive as puppies like other breeds: they are only too happy to play with their own toys and leave the furniture alone, like well-mannered children...This wonderful & unique dog is both visually equine in proportions and surprisingly feline in manners. Their natural cleanliness, fondness of comfortable bedding to curl on, their endearing habit of brushing their heads and necks against your legs or hands, gently asking for fuss in their unobtrusive fashion, are only a few of their cat-like mannerisms; often the Great Dane's gallop brings to mind the big cats, appearing very much like a lioness in full flight. Only the thundering sound of their powerful feet hitting the ground tells the difference between the silent-running cat and a Dane.
It is a must, of course, that he lives close to us, next to us, because otherwise the Dane withers away like a neglected flower: the easiest and most certain way to harm this dog is to exclude him from human company and tie him by a chain to a dog house, confine him to the back yard, the corner of the garden or the balcony; soon there he will get ill, as only near his human family the Dane feels happy and "ready to go anywhere and do anything" (in the words of the old English breed standard). His short, sleek, single coat (lacking undercoat) has not been developed for harsh outdoors living such as the herding breeds’; it does not protect him from dampness or drafts and the breed is susceptible to colds and pneumonia if not sheltered from the winter conditions. So if you love your dog you must safeguard him against these potentially fatal dangers.

 


FAINOMENON

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11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
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αγγλικο κειμενο - μερος β' (εως τελος)

The Great Dane, if well-bred from healthy ancestors and reared properly by his keepers with love and care, is a magnificent animal, sound in mind and body, expected to live about ten years or even more without problems. There had been Danes who lived to 13 or 14 even, that seems to be the limit for a giant breed nowadays. In the old days, when the breed had not yet suffered the consequences of commercial breeding and the craze for an increase in height, size and bulk at all costs, the average Great Dane was a more moderate canine altogether and certain individuals have been reported to reach the grand old age of 18 years! A lot is food-related of course, and different feeding regimes can greatly influence a dog's life expectancy and general health. A diet that accelerates growth at an early age is a recipe for disaster, as is over-supplementation and too high in protein & calcium feeding regimes, that may be suitable for other breeds but detrimental to the rapid-growing, slow-maturing giants like the Dane.
The dogs temperament is of the highest importance: the Dane must be friendly and confident, a real gentleman, fearless in the face of danger but never aggressive or quarrelsome; that is precisely why you must never get a Dane from an unreliable source, such as the puppy-trading pet shops or puppy-mills: you are very likely to be disappointed, ending up with a poor specimen riddled by behavioural or health problems.

Only through personal contact with a reputable breeder who keeps dogs as a hobby and not for profit may a prospective puppy owner receive all the information necessary for the proper puppy-rearing; information accumulated over years of experience, known only to the true breed expert but not the professional profiteer who deals in all breeds and treats puppies as recyclable assets for liquidation...

The Great Dane is a very intelligent canine and displays a graceful, almost human sense and behaviour, but only if he is a typical representative of his breed that has been properly nurtured and reared. He is not a four-legged robot that can be trained by anybody with the use of force, but a quick and positive learner eager to please the teacher(s) he loves and respects: his beloved persons. The Apollo of dogs is a true four-legged aristocrat, full of heart and generosity, superior spirit and courage; a companion that is protective, gentle, always attentive to his peoples' wishes and needs, proud and distinguished in appearance, beautiful like a classic statue, a dog that deserves to belong to people as good, civil and decent as himself.

Indeed, when you have a Great Dane, you don't owe your dog - your dog owns you: he or she will care, love and protect you in a parental fashion, and this adorable tendency the Danes demonstrates with all creatures sharing his/her household; children and pets, especially the smaller and most vulnerable, are in the centre of this benevolent being's affections. This easy-going attitude enables us to live in a trouble-free co-existence with other peaceful breeds of dogs and companion animals under the Dane's graceful manners and positive, loving yet unquestionable leadership. The Great Dane has a laid back outlook and an optimistic approach to life. He is a sunny-natured, happy dog that often demonstrates a wise, almost philosophical way of dealing with situations. If others want to pick a fight, the Dane will be unwilling, even forgiving and long-enduring, at first.
But as the Great Dane is both magnificent in stature & courage and incomparable in physical and mental strength, the breed's natural dismissiveness, which comes from self-assurance, should not be mistaken for cowardice: the Great Dane is the embodiment of quiet power and, regardless of their sex (females are even more naturally protective), know their own strength very well. Indeed, the well-reared Great Dane is a very effective watch dog and his deep, powerful bark is enough to deter any intruder. An angry Great Dane is not something anyone would ever wish to face…If, however, provoked or challenged, especially within their own household, in a situation that might threaten the peace and safety of their beloved ones, they will not hesitate to correct the aggressor in no uncertain terms. Thankfully, one such lesson from a Great Dane is usually enough. So it is useful to remember that it is not such a good idea to keep lesser, quarrelsome canines in the company of Great Danes. They are magnanimous to a fault, but do not tolerate viciousness in their realm...

The stature and looks of a Great Dane are impressive without doubt; combined with a uniquely charming personality and such a deep-understanding mind that caused the grandmother of animal trainers (Barbara Woodhouse) to call them "Almost Human" (in her book so titled), this is a charismatic creature that has understandably become one of the most beloved four-legged companions in the world. But this is definitely not a breed for the superficial egotist who just wants a large dog to show off: because in the Great Dane’s magnificent body beats a sensitive heart, full of unlimited love and affection, to be unconditionally given only to the right recipients; the ones who truly deserve the privilege of living in the company of the brave and the beautiful, the truly kind and thoroughly good and gentle and nice, the one and only true "Apollo of Dogs". So called not only for his external beauty and classic proportions, but mostly for his outstanding virtues & the radiant brilliance of his multi-talented nature. Great Danes the world over excel as companions and assistants of mankind in a variety of tasks, from therapy to search and rescue. For so many of us, who are lucky to know them and be loved by them, the world is a far better place because of their kind presence among us...Let us all work tirelessly so that their legacy of goodness is never betrayed, but continues to shine and warm our hearts and lives, for as long as our species exists, walking side by side with our true best friends...

(from an article by Maria Ginala, first published in 1999).
 


FAINOMENON

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11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
FEEDING GREAT DANES,
ESPECIALLY PUPPIES
by Jill Swedlow
Danes are a giant breed. The amount of growing they have to do to reach adult size in comparison to say, a Golden Retriever, is enormous. In only a year, almost full skeletal size is reached. Compare that to the very slow growth of a human who essentially reaches the same size and weight at adulthood. With bones forming and reforming so quickly, it isn't surprising that much can go wrong in a short time.
Vets and breeders used to think that it was necessary for giant breeds to consume huge quantities of protein, calcium, phosphorous and vitamin D in order to reach their adult full potential. Several extensive research projects have proven that over-nutrition and, worse, over supplementation with calcium, can be the causative agents in the many growth problems in the giant breeds. Now, informed breeders strive to keep growth steady but slow! Great Dane menus are properly balanced and protein is kept to around 24% or lower, especially during the fast growth stages of puppyhood.
I wanted to write an article to help people learn how to read a dog food label in order to select the best quality food. As my research progressed, I became convinced that NO manufactured dog food is really the best way to feed dogs. Some of the ingredients in some of the lower quality foods are frightening. Animals with cancers, animals that have been euthanized (perhaps including pets) with lethal injection (and the chemicals are still in their bodies) animals that are unclean, ad nauseum, literally!
Because most dog foods are completely balanced for all stages of growth, you'll upset the delicate balances if you start adding calcium and other unnecessary items. If the kibble you use does not add vitamin C, this is one supplement you might want to use. 500 mg AM and PM is good. Although dogs can manufacture their own vitamin C, it can't hurt to give them a little extra.
Its helpful to learn a bit about how to read and interpret the labels on dog foods. Poultry meal and poultry by-products are most definately not the same ingredient. Any ingredient which is designated as "by-products" is most likely stuff like beaks, feathers and feet, basically unusable protein sources for dogs. Poultry meal means that the whole chicken has been utilized. Also protein levels can be misleading depending on the source of the protein. A dog food label can list 28% protein but if it's derived from leather dust, the dog will never be able to utilize it. The first ingredient listed on the label must be the highest percentage of the food. Therefore if you see poultry meal as the first ingredient, the chances are that it's a higher quality food. If grains make up the bulk of the first ingredients, beware. This is not to say that just because grain is the first listed ingredient, that the food is no good.
It is also helpful to educate yourself about preservatives. I always avoid foods that use any kind of chemical as a preservative, especially those containing ethoxyquin or BHT. I also avoid any food that uses tomato pomace. This is the left over parts of tomatoes after they've had anything good taken out of them for human use. Now, this in itself isn't particularly bad, but what is left over contains the highest concentration of insecticides of almost any by-product you can name, especially the tomato skin! No thank you!
I'm not trying to come across as an expert on canine nutrition here, but these are things that have worked for me over several litters now. Before I stopped feeding the higher protein foods I never had a litter without some major growth problems. Panosteitis, osteochondrosis dessicans, and wobblers syndrome all raised their ugly heads at times. Since I've kept to lower protein for my litters the only problem was one pup with a mild case of panosteitis. Now maybe it's just been coincidence. I'm not saying that some or all of the above are not inherited. However, if there is an inherited predisposition to these problems, it certainly can't hurt to slow the growth and perhaps bypass the problem.
Once my danes are 6 weeks old, they are all on Eagle Kennel Pack or Eagle Natural Pack. They stay on that for the rest of their lives. I always feed twice a day as a bloat prevention measure. Since most of my girls tend to live well past 8, (thank God) perhaps I'm doing something right. I've always added scraps from the table or leftovers to give them some variety in the diet. Occasionally cottage cheese (FETA!) in small amounts (no more than 15% of the total kibble being fed) and sometimes yoghurt. I also occasionally add raw ground beef, or a raw egg (shell & all) or give them raw carrots or apples or any other vegetables or fruits they like. (no good in Greece to use raw meet -or eggs because of salmonella- as we can't trust the slaughter houses!) You'll be surprised how much they love this stuff! Recent studies on bloat at Purdue (1997) have indicated that dogs receiving table scraps and varity in their diets are less likely to bloat than dogs receiving the same food day in and day out.
One reason I love Eagle is because they add probiotics to the food. It is no longer necessary to leave the room when my dogs have gas, as they no longer have gas! (Well, not like they used to anyway!) For a breed as prone to bloat as the dane, this can only be a plus. All ingredients are HUMAN GRADE! I mix this with about 1/4 cup of Eagle Pack canned food (beef, chicken, liver or lamb) and a little warm water.
Even though you feed the best diet in the world, you must also control the dogs weight/body condition. Puppies should be on the lean side. You should just be able to feel the ribs. If he's roly poly and has rolls of skin, he's too fat. At seven weeks most pups are consuming around 1 1/2 to 2 cups of kibble 3 times a day. This will increase from week to week as the puppy grows. Most pups top out at around 3 cups, twice daily by the time they're 4-6 months. However, dogs (males) will often eat more than bitches. I have a young bitch who at 6 months old was eating 5 1/2 cups AM & PM and she was almost too lean on that. She's very tall and VERY ACTIVE!!!!
http://www.eaglepack.com/
Jill Swedlow, SunStrike Great Danes

οι σημειωσεις με κοκκινο δικες μου...
 


FAINOMENON

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11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
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THE ART OF BREEDING GREAT DANES OR,
TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED...
[Excerpt from The Great Dane, Model of Nobility, by Jill Swedlow]
(Please note, illustrations still pending)
...That is the question, to sort of quote the famous Bard.
The breeding of dogs is truly an art. The artist’s medium is living flesh. When one plans a breeding the purpose should be improvement of the breed. Obviously one must be extremely knowledgeable to have a chance of attaining this goal. The breeder must be willing to thoroughly health check both parents, to make sure the temperaments of both parents and their ancestors is typical of the breed, and to take full responsibility, both practical and financial, for every dog they cause to be born until the day it dies. Besides this the breeder must have a thorough knowledge of pedigrees, conformation and the Standard for the breed. One does not obtain this knowledge overnight. This is why no novice should breed a bitch unless they have an experienced mentor to guide them, and have taken the time to educate themselves. Be prepared to spend a lot of money on this litter. And know in advance that you will NOT MAKE money! Be happy if you break even.
Those of you who have or will purchase a Dane for a companion only, need not even read this chapter because your dog should never be bred. Your dog was purchased as a pet because he or she did not have that exceptional conformation that made him/her worthy of breeding. Now I know this sounds a bit elitist, but there are good reasons why the breeder designated your dog to be of pet quality. Not every dog needs to be bred but that in no way demeans the wonderful attributes of your loved pet. Dedicated breeders strive (or should strive) to breed only from the very best specimens in the breed in order to, hopefully, keep improving the overall quality in the breed from litter to litter. If the breeder of your pet quality dog did not sell you the dog on limited registration or specify that your dog should not be bred and you’re actually thinking of breeding it, please give serious attention to the following.
SELECTING AND EVALUATING A BROOD BITCH
If you want to be known as the breeder, you must own the bitch, not the dog. AKC identifies the bitch owner as the breeder. In that light, any Great Dane bitch can produce a litter of Great Danes if she’s mated to another AKC registered Great Dane. However, we want to improve on our bitch and hopefully produce a litter of outstanding, healthy, good tempered, long lived Great Danes. Great Danes who will grow into dogs who will bring happiness to their new owners.
Becoming a dog breeder is a serious responsibility. The little puppies that you will cause to be born, have no choice in the matter, nor do they have any control over the life that they will live. You, and only you, are fully responsible for this so you’d better make some informed decisions. This begins with the decision to breed your bitch or to purchase a bitch for this purpose. If you are already an established breeder, the chances are that you already have a lot of knowledge as to what combinations of parents should produce the best litter. The operative word here is ‘should’. There are many well-known breeders who will breed bitches without health checks, or who will overlook the fact that the bitch or stud has a poor temperament. Please, before you decide to breed, be honest in your evaluation of your bitch. A championship title is no guarantee that a bitch should be bred. If you have doubts, consult a fellow breeder whom you respect. Sometimes we become so involved with our dogs that we can’t see the faults that may be obvious to others. This is called ‘kennel blindness’ and no one should breed if they’re afflicted with it. These are the breeders that consistently produce garbage, year after year, litter after litter. I know of several. Some are even ‘well-known’.
If your bitch is of breeding quality, there is still a lot to consider prior to making the decision to breed.
Whelping a bitch and raising a litter is a full time responsibility. You cannot expect your bitch to take care of the puppies on her own during the day while you’re at work. You need to be with her for at least the first 3-4 weeks of the babies lives. A new litter will turn your household upside down.
Consider that the pups usually wait until you’ve fallen soundly asleep to start arriving in the middle of the night. You can usually count on at least one sleepless night, and probably several if you sleep by the whelping box so you can be sure that none of the puppies get squashed by mom. Even the most careful dam can sometimes hurt a puppy this way without meaning to.
You need to be close by for at least 4 weeks so that blankets can be washed and changed and messes cleaned up. (Yes mom does clean up after the puppies, but there’s always an occasional stray turd laying around). Once the puppies are being weaned you’ll be providing from 4 to 5 meals a day. And OH! What a MESS they make in their first meals. They like to swim in the mush. This is, of course, a wonderful treat for mom, as she licks her little pupcakes clean, but what a mess for you! It often takes me ½ hour to clean up the floor of food papers, wash the food off the pups that mom missed and then police the area for any stray poops/pees.
As the pups become older and leave the whelping box your work really begins. 10–15 poop runs a day is at least average! Keeping fresh newspapers down, providing lots of attention and socialization (you know, playing with the little dolls! Oh how we suffer!) mopping up the spills around the water dish when they begin to learn how to swim (and, incidentally, drink water!) and generally being nearby in case someone gets into trouble, such as becoming stuck between mom and the wall.
Now that they’re older you need to begin lead breaking and socializing outside the property as soon as they have enough vaccines in them, around 8-10 weeks of age. I will plop mine in the van and take them to a little shopping area where, one at a time, they go on walks around the shops meeting new friends.
All the above is just for a normal, uneventful whelping and litter. What if your bitch dies, as my friend Wendy's did, when her litter was 4 days old? Wendy had to hand raise a litter of 7, and it about did her in! All pups were bottle fed rather than tube fed as puppies need the time sucking to become well adjusted. Wendy got little sleep for the next 5 weeks. The puppies also had several problems and had to be taken to emergency care. (Talk about making huge profits from breeding dogs! Ha! I think the final vet bill total came to around $5000.00!)
Just be sure that you are willing to give up having a life of any kind other than being a gofer for your bitch and her litter until they go to their new homes. So if you’ve decided that this is what you want to do, read on.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved. (Jill is a breeder, exhibitor and licensed AKC judge in the United States who judged the 2002 National Great Dane Speciality.)
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
THE ART OF BREEDING GREAT DANES OR,
TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED...
[Excerpt from The Great Dane, Model of Nobility, by Jill Swedlow]

part II:

breeding is time consuming, hard work and can often be heartbreaking
EVALUATING A BITCH FOR BREEDING
Although the page on ‘good and bad reasons to breed’ covers much of this subject, there is a lot more to it than that. If you do not yet have your foundation bitch and are about to begin your search, you should start with researching the families of bitches under consideration.
The first thing that will probably attract you is the general ‘type’ that certain lines and families produce. Once you’ve decided on this, start asking questions about what health and temperament evaluations the dogs in the pedigrees have had. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to trace these traits for every dog, but at least try to get an idea. It isn’t too much to expect that the dogs for the last 2 or 3 generations (hopefully more) have at least had their hips evaluated for hip dysplasia. Ask to see the OFA certificates or letters from the veterinarian who did the evaluation.
It’s true that many breeders hesitate to sell their best puppies to a novice. This is why it’s a good idea to attend shows, meet the breeders and try to find someone who will act as your mentor as you learn about Great Danes.
Before you take the first steps to breeding a bitch, it’s a good idea to have at least a working knowledge of genetics.
GENETICS, THE BREEDERS BLUEPRINT
Let me state here and now that I am not a geneticist nor do I claim to be an expert on this subject. I have, however, done a great deal of reading on the subject and used and studied it in my many years of breeding Great Danes, birds, horses, and Mini­ature Horses. Once the basic principles are learned and understood, it becomes an invaluable tool to breed improvement. It helps you to understand why certain traits that were not seen in the conformation of the parents can turn up in the conformation of the offspring. You no longer feel as if you are groping blindly in the dark in your quest to improve your dogs.
I do not intend to delve too deeply into how the sperm and ovum carry the genes or the mechanics of microscopic reproduction. This subject can be learned from many good texts written for the layman in comprehensible terms. If you have little or no knowledge of these facts, you should learn your basics as it will give you a better understanding of the information contained in this section. I have included my own basic descriptions in that, without some knowledge of reproduction, you will not understand the following concepts. Mainly I intend to explain how genetic understanding can be used to accomplish your breeding goals and how I use it.
The Importance of a Pedigree
When planning a breeding, the more information you have about each parent’s relatives, the more accurately you can predict what traits that particular animal is likely to pass on to it's offspring. The ancestral names, which appear on a pedigree, have no value unless you have specific information about as many individuals as possible. Try to actually see as many of the ancestors as you can. Evaluate each one in terms of conformation, health and temperament and what they have produced if applicable. Keep a file on each dog, either on your computer (my method) or on hard copies so you can refer back as needed. Photographs or videos are also extremely helpful.
If you cannot see the animal in person, interview those who have. Ask them as many questions as you can think of about each dog. The more information you accumulate, the more accurate will be your ability to predict what to expect in the litter.
The Mechanics of Inheritance Some elementary genetic principles must be illustrated here in order to understand what follows.
The new pup inherits half it’s genes from its sire and half from its dam. The genes are the chemical blueprint which determines every inherited physical characteristic each pup in the litter will have. They determine his size, color, whether his back is long or short, whether his head is pretty or common, on and on for every part of his body inside and out.
There are two types of cells in the dog, as in other living organisms. The body cells, known as SOMATIC cells, which are found in all tissues of the body such as skin, internal organs, bone, etcetera. These somatic cells differ from the sex cells in that they carry a full compliment of the animal's genetic material, 78 CHROMOSOMES in the case of the dog. The GENES reside upon the chromosomes. The sex cells, called GAMATES, are the sperm cells in the male dog and the egg cells, or ova, in the bitch. The gametes carry only ONE HALF the chromosomes of the somatic cells (Illustration # 2). Since the genes are found contained within the chromosomes, this means that the gametes only have one half the genes ofthe body cells. This seems to be the most difficult concept for the beginning student of genetic inheritance to grasp so I have included Illustration #2 to help clarify this point.
Illustration # 1 is of a SOMATIC CELL (body cell). It contains the nucleus which contains the 64 pairs of chromosomes, which contain the genes. (Only 3 pairs of the dog’s chromosomes are shown for the sake of clarity).
Dominant and Recessive Genes
Without going into deep technical detail it is important to understand the basic concept of dominant and recessive genes. This is probably one of the greatest points of confusion among those who breed animals but have little knowledge of genetics. Because of these traits, there occurs a phe­nomenon whereby an individual may carry genes to express a specific trait (genotype) but the trait is not expressed physically (phenotype). Let me be more specific. Genotype is simply a word that refers to the actual genetic makeup of the individual; it's the sum total of a particular genetic makeup. You may or may not actually see the physical trait controlled by a certain gene(s). Phenotype is the physical body that you can actually see and measure such as fawn coat color or a bad bite. It is the proof that an animal really does carry a gene to control the trait. At the risk of being redundant, a trait controlled by recessive genes can often be hidden by a dominant gene, but a dominant gene always is expressed physically(pheno­typically).
I wish to mention here that for the sake of clarity, I have purposely left out discussion of modifiers, complete and incomplete dominance, masking genes etcetera. Not only would they tend to muddy the water of understand­ing the basics, which is difficult enough, but they are always a handy scapegoat to use if the unexpected occurs in a breeding. "Oh well, the stud must have carried masking genes and modifiers!", you can state wisely.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
THE ART OF BREEDING GREAT DANES OR,
TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED...
[Excerpt from The Great Dane, Model of Nobility, by Jill Swedlow]


Part III

Illustration # 1
Somatic Cell (Body Cell) – Contains the nucleus which contains the pairs of chromosomes (only 3 pairs are illustrated for clarity), which contain the genes.

Illustration # 2
The gamates (sex cells) when manufactured within the sperm & ovaries have only 39 chromosomes. The 79 pairs of chromosomes have split, each half carrying their respective genes.

Illustration # 3
When the ovum is fertilized by the sperm, each carrying only ½ of each parent’s genetic material, the new embryo has the full complement of 78 chromosomes with their genes. This pup is a unique individual whose total genetic makeup is unlike any other.



[INSERT PHOTO # 12-10] It is also worth mentioning here that, unfortunately, there are very few inherited traits, which are attributable to only one gene. Most traits are made up from several genes interacting with each other. In order to understand these principles though, it is necessary to use the simple dominant and simple recessive traits.
I will use fawn and brindle coat color as an example since it is an easy trait to see and understand. It is also inherited in a straight forward way and is controlled by one gene. The gene which produces the brindle pattern in Great Danes is a dominant gene. The gene which produces a fawn colored coat, is recessive to the brindle gene. Since brindle is the dominant gene, a Dane showing this pattern as his phenotype can still carry the fawn color gene recessively as part of his genotype. Remember I stated that each parent carries two sets of genes and chromosomes but gives the offspring only half their chromosomes, thus half their genes.
The fawn bitch (who carries only fawn genes donates one of her two recessive fawn genes, the brindle dog [who, for the sake of this example is a homozygous brindle, which means he carries only brindle genes and is himself, brindle] donates one of his dominant brindle genes. Their offspring carries one gene for each color as his genotype but his phenotype can never be fawn because the brindle gene is the dominant one of the pair. Now we have a whole new set of genes. What happens if this new individual, who carries both a fawn and brindle gene (making him genetically heterozygous which means he carries a gene for each color), is mated to a bitch who is genotypically identical to him? This means that she carries the same genetic makeup for fawn and brindle, being phenotypically brindle.
There is no certain way to predict exactly how the genes will combine unless you are dealing only with animals who are homozygous for the pure dominant or recessive trait. In other words, a mating between a brindle dog and a brindle bitch, both of whom are homozygous for the brindle gene can produce nothing but brindle offspring all of whom are genotypically homozygous for brindle and all of whom are phenotypically brindle. A dog which is homozygous for such a trait, is said to "breed true" for that trait. (If you are getting confused here, be sure you understand the meaning of homozygous [both genes for said trait are the same], heterozygous [carries genes for both traits, fawn and brindle], genotype [what the genes actually are] and phenotype [the actual appearance of the body pattern]).
Square #1 shows the color expectancy from the above proposed mating of the heterozygous brindle dog and bitch. Let "B" represent the dominant brindle gene and "f" represent the recessive fawn gene. (The geneticists do it a bit differently, but this will be clearer for our purposes). This average is based on 100 offspring. We will now take each square of the graph individually. Each square repre­sents a pup, its genotype and phenotype for the fawn and brindle genes.
Square and Pup #1
This pup's genotype (BB) contains 2 genes for brindle. His coat color is brindle. He can pass on only brindle genes to his offspring since he is homozygous for the brindle gene and does not carry a fawn gene recessively.
Squares and Pups #2 & 3
These pup's genotypes (Bf) each contain one gene for brindle and one for fawn. Their coat colors are brindle. They can pass on either the brindle or the fawn gene to their offspring since they are heterozygous for brindle and fawn. Since the fawn gene is recessive to brindle, it is not able to express itself in the pup's phenotypes.
Square & Pup #4
This pup is our example of two recessive genes finding each other and expressing a genetic trait of its parents, which the parents did not show in their phenotype. This pup’s genotype (ff) contains two genes for fawn color. His coat color pattern is fawn. He can pass on only fawn genes to his offspring since he is homozygous for fawn. If he carried a brindle gene, he would appear brindle since brindle is dominant to fawn.
The chart is a shorthand method of calculating the probability of any two genes finding each other at the moment of conception. The heterozygous male has sperm, half of which carry a fawn gene and half of which carry a brindle gene. The heterozygous bitch has ova with the same makeup, half carry the fawn gene and half carry the brindle. It is pure chance as to which sperm finds which egg. The laws of probability tell us however, that in a sampling of 100 offspring, approximately 25% will be BB, (homozygous for the dominant brindle gene with a brindle phenotype). 25% will be ff, (homozygous for the recessive gene for fawn coat color, with a fawn phenotype). And 50% will be Bf, (heterozygous for fawn and brindle with a brindle phenotype).
If you have already grasped the concept, please bear with me as I give one more example. It is imperative that these principles be understood since they are the very foundation of genetics. Square # 2 mates a brindle dog (with a heterozygous genotype for fawn and brindle, Bf) to a fawn bitch, (homozygous for fawn ff).
Squares and Pups #1 & 3
Both pups have brindle phenotypes and heterozygous genotypes for fawn and brindle. Both can pass on either fawn or brindle genes to their offspring.
Squares and Pups 2 & 4
These pups have fawn phenotypes and genotypes since a double dose of a recessive gene is necessary to find expression. If they are bred to a fawn mate they will produce nothing but fawn.
I have taken you through all the above in order to more clearly explain the behavior of simple dominant and recessive gene pairs. Since the chromo­somes occur in pairs in the somatic cells, so do genes. I'm going to continue with the example of the fawn gene versus the brindle gene. As previously stated, these traits are controlled by single genes (not multigenetic as are most traits, unfortunately for us!) and brindle is dominant to fawn.

Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
THE ART OF BREEDING GREAT DANES OR,
TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED...
[Excerpt from The Great Dane, Model of Nobility, by Jill Swedlow]


PART IV

When gametes (sex cells) are formed, they contain only 1/2 of the genetic make-up of each parent. One gamete may end up with the gene which causes brindle stripes, and the other gamete may carry the other gene for fawn body color. The same will be true of the male’s sperm cells. It is pure chance as to which of the bitch's ova becomes ripe first and ovulates into the fallopian tubes to await the dog's sperm. It could be ones with the fawn gene or ones with the brindle gene. Since there are an equal number of each, there is a fifty-fifty chance of it being either. The same holds true of the dog's sperm. Approximately one half of the millions of sperm contained in each ejaculate carry his fawn gene, and one half carry the brindle gene. If the sperm which fertilizes the ova carries a gene for fawn, and the ova has the gene for brindle, the pup will be born brindle since brindle is dominant to fawn. The resulting pup will carry one gene for brindle and one for fawn and is, itself, genetically capable of producing get of either color depending on the genetic make up of its mate. If the bitch's ovum happens to be one with the gene for fawn, and so is the dog's sperm, the pup will be fawn and carry two genes for fawn. If the bitch's ova carries the brindle gene and so does the dogs sperm, the pup will not only be brindle but will carry brindle in a double dose (both genes brindle, eg. homozygous) and can NEVER produce any get except brindle since brindle is dominant to fawn.
The laws of probability tell us that with animals carrying simple recessive and simple dominants, the chances are always 50-50 as to which gene is inherited by the pup. The calculations are over the expectancy of 100 offspring so if your brindle dog has been bred to 3 fawn bitches and has produced 15 brindle pups, there is STILL a 50-50 chance that the next litter he sires could contain fawns. A small chance, but still a chance. This will also tell you something about his genotype. You know he carries a recessive gene for fawn because he has produced fawn pups even though he is himself brindle. You also know that he carries the dominant brindle gene because he is brindle.
Sometimes semantics seem to be responsible for some misunderstand­ing. One breeder once asked me why her brindle dog sometimes produced fawn pups instead of always producing brindle pups if the brindle gene was dominant. She didn't understand that the gene had to be passed along to the pup (inherited) in order for it to be able to exert its dominance. The chances of the brindle gene being passed along, when the dog carries a recessive gene for fawn also, is 50-50. Only dogs that are homozygous for the brindle gene (they have 2 genes for brindle and carry no gene for fawn) will produce 100% brindle pups.
Admittedly the above examples are overly simplified when compared to multi-genetically controlled traits. There are other types of genes which behave in different ways. In order to predict the expectancy of certain traits accurately, you must have a pretty good idea of the mode of inheri­tance.
The example of canine coat color can be translated into many traits of Great Danes. Brindle is dominant to fawn but there are other colors (and patterns) in the breed which are not quite so simple to understand and predict. The relationship between genes, which is dominant to which, and which are recessive, can be likened to a pecking order among chickens. The rooster (most dominant gene) is at the top of the heap and bosses everyone around. Next is the bossiest hen who only takes orders from the rooster. Below her are the rank and file of her subordinates, all of whom obey their betters, and in turn, control their underlings until you come to the bottom of the heap and find the little hen (most recessive gene) whom everyone picks on. She never gets to eat or express herself until she is the only one in the barnyard.
Now you are probably beginning to wonder how any of this can be helpful since little is known of the mode of inheritance of many canine traits. Also, few traits are controlled by a single gene. Most are multi-gen­etic, such as head shape. There are probably thousands of genes and their modifiers which make up the blueprint which determines the shape of a dog’s head. Although it would be very difficult, not to mention impractical, to try isolating each gene and how it behaves in creating the overall blueprint, these controlling groups of genes often tend to act in recessive or domi­nant ways as a group. For instance, let us say you have a dog with a beautiful head. You mate him to 10 bitches whose head type ranges from ugly to plain, but none are gorgeous. If 75% of the offspring have beautiful heads like their sire, you can be fairly accurate in concluding that your dog is dominant for his head type. This can be applied to any conformation trait or group of traits which tend to occur in the same manner. But what about traits which, as a group, behave in a recessive manner? Since recessives are masked by dominants, they can be difficult to isolate. (The recessive genes often control undesirable traits such as an undershot jaw or light eye color).
We will use an undershot jaw (the lower teeth protrude forward of the upper) as our example. Assume you breed a bitch and dog to each other who both possess a correct bite. Some of their puppies are undershot. What does this tell us? It is highly probably that both parents are carriers of the recessive gene, or genes, which produced the bad bite. (Remember the brindle dog and bitch who both carried fawn recessively and produced a fawn pup?) We are dealing with the same principle here. What makes a trait like this difficult to breed out is it's recessive nature. Their pups could as easily have had a correct bite but still carried the genes for a bad bite recessively. (See Illustration #?). These recessives can be masked by their dominant alleles (genes which appear on a common location on the chromosomes) for generation after generation until the time when they pair with another like recessive and express themselves in the puppy’s phenotype. If you will refer back, once again to chart #?, you will see that there is a 50% probability that an offspring of recessive carrier parents will itself be a carrier.
This is a rather sobering thought, especially when one realizes that such recessives can skip generations and the individual must be test bred in order to ascertain if it is, indeed, a carrier. So what is the logical solution to this problem? Intelligent breeding practices and ruthless culling, which will be discussed later.
There are several different methods of planned breeding used by knowl­edgeable breeders. All have their good points and their drawbacks. Sometimes one must simply experiment with the different methods to establish which will work best under any given circumstances. This, then, brings us to a discussion of inbreeding, linebreeding, and outcrossing.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved

 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART V

Inbreeding
Inbreeding is generally considered to be the closest type of breeding possible. Full brother to full sister, mother to son and father to daughter. Ironically, an occasional sister/brother mating may not be genetically close at all since the possibility exists for each sibling to have received entirely different sets of genes from each parent. This is, however, seldom the case and we can assume it to be inbreeding for our purposes.
Those who do not understand genetic principles often condemn in­breeding, claiming that it weakens the animal which it produces. In many cases this can be true, but inbreeding itself is not the culprit.
By its very nature inbreeding gives the greatest probability that recessive genes will be expressed. This is because closely related animals are more likely to carry the same recessives in their geno­type than unrelated animals. By breeding these close relatives to each other the chances are high that two recessive genes, or groups of recessive genes, will meet and produce the trait they control in the animal's phenotype. Inbreeding's poor reputation is due to the fact that traits which are controlled by recessive genes are often undesirable, such as light eyes or incorrect mouths. If the trait they control is desirable, then inbreed­ing is considered to be successful, but you usually get some of each.
Inbreeding can be a very useful tool for pinpointing an animal's genotype. When inbreeding is employed, it is safest after linebreeding has set a type and you have related dogs that consistently produce the qualities you have been striving to "set" in your breeding line. You should have a very clear idea of what your gene pool is capable of producing and then use only animals whose phenotype is as nearly perfect as possible. Even then it can be risky, but if successful, you have a real prize. Inbreeding should be a tool held only in the hands of a knowledgeable breeder, it is definitely not for the novice.
Linebreeding
This practice usually includes pairings such as, niece to uncle, grand child to grand parent, half sister to half brother or a pairing which includes one animal's name somewhere within the first three gen­erations on both sides of the pedigree. Linebreeding is probably the safest approach when establishing a breeding line. Although recessives can certainly be expressed when using this method, the frequency is not as high as with inbreeding. There is a wider margin for error here because progress is more gradual.
As with inbreeding, you must be sure to use only superior quality individuals when linebreeding. You must also be certain that the ancestor being linebred on is himself or herself a superior specimen of the breed, and has the traits you are trying to set in your line. If you linebreed on faulty animals, you're more than likely going to get faulty pups. You must also be sure not to breed two animals together that have faults in common. In other words, if the dog is a bit cow-hocked, make sure that the bitch is perfect in her rear legs.
Outcrossing
This is the mating of unrelated animals who do not have any ancestors in common within the first 4 or 5 generations. Unlike inbreeding and line-breeding, this method will do nothing to make the resulting pup more homozygous genetically. It is very difficult to predict with any accuracy what results might be obtained from such a mating unless the outcross mate is, himself, line bred. The continued use of this breeding method will never produce a group of animals which breed true for any characteristic.
One advantage of this method is that you are less likely to encounter any recessive genetic problems unless the parents each carry these genes.
Outcrossing can best be used when, after several generations of line­breeding you have established a gene pool which breeds true most of the time for the traits you desire, but you find that your gene pool does not contain genes for producing, for example, a beautiful head. You will try to locate a stud dog, who is from a linebred family with beautiful heads, and who has himself consistently produced pups with beautiful heads. Even though this animal himself is the result of linebreeding he is unrelated to your own animals and the resultant breeding is considered an outcross. Then you take the good headed results of this mating and breed it back to your own linebred bitches. You have now obtained the genes you need to work with in order to put beautiful heads on your future puppies.
Besides the above outlined breeding techniques, there are several others. I will not go into them here, but many breeding books can fully explain them to you. Much can be learned from books concerned with breeding other types of animals such as horses, cattle and chickens. The principles are identical.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART VI

The Canine Genome Project
There is currently a world wide effort to map the canine genome. According to an article entitled, Mapping A Brighter Tomorrow by Melissa Goodman, DVM which appeared in the AKC Gazette dated January 1998, “The goal of the canine genome project is to produce a map of all the chromosomes in dogs. This map can then be used as a framework to identify which genes cause a particular inherited disease, as well as genes for other inherited characteristics, such as behavior and conformation.
The development of a genetic map of the dog has already resulted in several helpful assays, including tests for progressive retinal atrophy and copper toxicosis”. Breeders are already using this information effectively to eliminate this malady in affected breeds.
You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to realize the potential for such a study! Imagine being able to select dogs who are genetically free of health problems, temperament problems and who’s conformation comes close to the standard!
Selecting a Stud for Your Bitch
You’re bitch has finished her championship. Her temperament is wonderful and her conformation worthy of passing on. You are fully prepared to be responsible for her puppies until the day they die, no matter that they live elsewhere. Her OFA hip rating came back normal as did her thyroid screening. (These are the 2 tests I consider essential when I screen my own bitches and for studs I breed to). I also screen for cardiac normality. Unfortunately, unless the dog has a heart problem at the time, the screening test cannot predict that she or he will never have a problem. I guess we just do the best we can with the tools we have. You’re ready to breed her!
Judges are supposed to evaluate dogs in a positive manner, rather than ‘fault judge’. But when you evaluate a bitch for breeding, you must know the faults that need improvement as well as the assets, in order to select the right mate. If you have a bitch that toes in, you do not select a mate that toes out. You select a stud that is correct for this trait. Otherwise you’ll get puppies that toe in and puppies that toe out. Do not overcompensate for your bitches faults.
When you think you’ve found the future sire of your litter, one who is correct where your girl is faulty, but also has most of her desirable traits, you next need to find out about his relatives. What about his sire and dam? Were they also correct for the traits you’re trying to improve? What about siblings? Aunts and uncles? Check them all as this will give you a much broader picture of what the genetic make up of this male might be. Of course one of the most important things to look at are any puppies he has sired along with their dams. If the dams have some similar faults to your bitch and the puppies are correct for the traits, it's a good bet that this dog can help to accomplish your goals.
The pictures of Skylark and Randy (below) illustrate a pair of dogs that compliment each other. The litter is even better than I hoped!
When you’re evaluating possible sires, please make temperament one of your priorities. This breed is far too large to excuse dangerous temperaments. I’m sorry to have to say that there are some well known breeders out there who care little for temperament! Some of the most frequently advertised and top winning animals are overly aggressive or shy. The owners continue to breed them or allow them to be used at stud. I think that this is both irresponsible and criminal!
I’m not condemning the breeder who has an occasional shy or aggressive dog. This can happen no matter how cautious we are as breeders. When one considers the original temperament of the first Great Danes imported from Germany, it’s amazing that the breed has as good a temperament as it does!
You’ve selected the best stud you can find for your bitch and you’ve signed the stud contract and fully understand what it does and does not guarantee. As your bitch’s season nears, you have several things you must do prior to breeding.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART VII

What To Do Before You Breed
Brucellosis testing
Most stud owners have, as their minimum requirement, a request that your bitch be tested for brucellosis. This is a disease that will render both bitch and stud sterile, for which there is no cure. You should also request this test from the stud owner as well as a copy of the test. You should produce a copy of your bitch’s test, too.
Additional testing
You should provide the owner of the stud with copies of the OFA papers and all other health tests that have been performed on your bitch and the stud owner should have provided you with same. If the dogs are microchipped or tattooed, it is desirable to have the vet who performs these tests, verify that he is, indeed, testing the dog that is represented.
It isn’t uncommon for dogs that are clear for certain health traits to be substituted for others that aren’t. Without permanent identification, there is no way the veterinarian who performs the tests can verify that the dog is who it’s purported to be. If the dog’s ID is shown on the test papers, you can be assured that the dog is really clear.
Cultures
I routinely have my bitches cultured a couple days after they come into season if they are to be bred. I request a culture and sensitivity be run. This way, if there’s an unusual growth of anything, we know immediately which antibiotic it’s sensitive to. Vaginal flora are a normal occurrence in the vagina. However, if one of these organisms produce a large growth, it’s a good idea to control it.
If you should be unlucky enough to have a growth of mycoplasma show up, it would be a good idea to forget breeding on this season. Mycoplasma almost always results in either no pregnancy or dead/dying puppies. Best to treat the infection and try for the next season.
Rather than using a systemic antibiotic, I prefer to use an antibiotic douche. Most often these organisms are sensitive to Gentocin which your vet can make into a douche solution for you.
Douching your bitch is easy. A 500 cc dose syringe and a stallion catheter is all you need. The bitch, being in season, usually is quite receptive to having the catheter inserted. It will usually go up into the vagina about 8 inches. You then depress the plunger and you’re done. I douche my bitches for 2 days, AM and PM, prior to breeding. DO NOT douche within 48 hours of the breeding as you may kill the sperm.
Stud owners would be wise to occasionally culture their studs sheath and treat any problems accordingly.
Progesterone Testing
Depending on the breeding method you use, progesterone testing may become necessary. I progesterone test even for a natural breeding, especially if the bitch or stud are virgins. If you’re doing an artificial insemination or shipping chilled fresh or frozen semen, you must do progesterone testing. All progesterone testing is not equally accurate so talk to other breeders and stud owners who have used these methods, and go to the vets and laboratories who have had the highest rate of success.
Semen Evaluation
If the stud is a virgin, or if he’s missed his last bitch, it’s a good idea to have a specialist do a semen evaluation. Even though it only takes one sperm to fertilize one egg, it’s necessary to have a very high number of active, normal sperm in order to impregnate the bitch. Ask the stud owner for a recommendation or contact one of the cryobanks that collect and store sperm.
The Bitch’s Estrus Cycle
Most bitches will come into season every 6 months beginning from the age of 9 months or so. Mine tend to have their first season after the age of 10 or 11 months. For some bitches it is normal to cycle every 4 months. For others, every 5 months or even only once a year can be the norm.
The first thing you’re likely to notice when your bitch comes into heat is the discharge of blood from the vulva. If you have a really bad case of ‘puppy fever’ and you’ve been watching your girl like a hawk, you’ll notice that the vulva will swell prior to seeing the first discharge. Every book I’ve ever read on this subject tells us that the discharge will change to a ‘straw color’ as the bitch approaches the time she’s fertile. I’ve NEVER seen this in my bitches. They continue to bleed right through the breeding dates. The only change I’ve ever seen is that the blood becomes a little more dilute as the days progress.
If you’re planning a natural breeding, you may wish to skip progesterone testing and go by what the dogs ‘say’. If this be the case, you might want to present the bitch to the dog on her 10th day for a first ‘check’. The most common breeding dates are day 11 & 13 if you’re going to do only 2 breedings. These are the most common ‘fertile’ days for the bitch, but remember bitches can fluctuate. If you’ve followed this rule on a virgin bitch and she came up empty, I’d strongly suggest progesterone testing prior to breeding on the next season. Some bitches are fertile on day 8 and some not until day 18! (Days are counted from the first time you see blood discharged from the vulva).
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART VIII

Natural Breeding
When I take my bitches to be bred, I ask the stud owner about their procedure. I much prefer to begin with both dog and bitch on lead and the bitch unmuzzled. I like them to be able to say ‘hi’ first and play a little, which is what nature intended. Even if a bitch isn’t ready, and snaps, it’s highly unlikely she’s going to harm the male. She’s just warning him to ‘stay away’ and he’ll understand this and comply. Sometimes he can talk her into standing while he mounts, and other times, it’s just not quite the right time.
On another note, if a bitch will not stand and tries to savage the dog, she should not be bred at all. One of the most important traits for which one should select is fertility, and dogs who breed readily. It’s interesting to note here that the dam of the litter mentioned above that had the temperament and health problems, was a very reluctant breeder. I had to muzzle her and hold her up in order for the stud to breed her. Guess she knew more than I did! I remember too, that her sire GROWLED during the tie! The resultant litter was full of problems, both temperament and health.
Natural breeding is the most common and most successful method of breeding. Even with all the scientific advancements I still believe that the dog and the bitch know best when the moment is right!
I like to allow the dogs to meet each other while held on a 6 foot lead. Some dogs will greet the bitch and invite her to play with him. If the bitch seems so inclined, it’s to everyone’s benefit to let them both off lead in a small enclosure and let them play. The dog will usually try to mount right away. If the bitch is receptive, she’ll brace her hind legs apart, and ‘flag’ her tail to the side. Often you can allow the tie to occur before steadying the bitches head and helping the male to turn.
The ‘tie’ occurs when the bitch’s vaginal muscles contract and hold the ‘ball’ that forms at the base of the penis. The natural impulse of the male is to dismount with both forelegs on one side of the bitch. He will then lift a hind leg and try to turn so that the dogs are tail to tail with only the tie holding them together. It is during the tie that the bulk of the sperm is ejaculated. The first fluid is usually clear seminal fluid. When the fluid becomes milky, it’s full of sperm.
Be sure and have a good hold on the bitch’s head when the tie occurs. This is often painful for her and she may try to turn and bite.
If the dog is interested and trying to breed, and the bitch is standing well but they’re just not connecting, don’t panic. The chances are that you’re a day or two early. Commonly, when you try on the following day, it’s a case of instant tie!
Often the handlers want to constantly interfere with the dogs in an attempt to facilitate the breeding. It’s been my experience that the dogs are far more adept than we are and if left alone, will accomplish the breeding when the time is right.
The first time I ever attended a breeding was a real education! I was rooming with Penny Twaits whose mother Kathleen Twaits, together with Jackie White, shared the Tallbrook Farm’s prefix. (It’s all Penny’s fault that I’m involved with this hobby!) It happened that Penny and I were at Kathleen’s house when a young, virgin bitch was brought over to be bred to Tallbrook’s Darby Dan, also a virgin. The dogs were introduced and all seemed to be proceeding normally. The bitch was interested, Darby was doing his thing, but they were having trouble. The bitch was not very tall and Darby was having trouble lining up with the target.
This went on for hours it seemed! They’d try, fail, get too tired, or Darby would get an outside tie, and we’d put him away to rest for awhile. Then someone got the bright idea of propping the bitch’s rear up a little higher. Out comes Darby again and it looks like its working! He’s certainly closer to the target than before. But still he’s getting outside ties.
After about 3 hours of this, Darby returns from still another rest period and is happy to keep on trying. I’m standing behind him just as he begins to penetrate the bitch. Without thinking, I put my arms around Darby from the rear, grabbed onto the bitch’s stifles, and held Darby against her with my pelvis. Everyone starts laughing at me and it suddenly occurred to me the picture we must present. Here’s the bitch standing with her butt in the air, Darby is mounted on her, and I’m mounted on him and he and I are thrusting away at this poor bitch! (Yes, there was a litter. At least they didn’t put my name on the pedigree!)
Artificial Insemination
This method is used under several circumstances. When a stud won’t or can’t, breed properly, when the stud is many miles away and you don’t want to ship the bitch, or when the stud has died and his semen has been stored.
Whether you’re using frozen semen or cooled, you and your bitch will have to put yourselves in the hands of the experts. The bitch is inseminated in one of 2 ways, surgically or transcervically.
Surgical insemination requires that the bitch be anesthetized and the semen is introduced directly into the uterus through an incision through her side her side.
The procedure with transcervical insemination introduces the semen directly through the cervix into the uterus and the bitch does not need to be sedated. Until recently there was a higher rate of pregnancy with the surgical procedure but I understand that not it is equally successful transcervically.
In either case the bitches hormone levels must be closely monitored prior to breeding. The bitch is only fertile for a very short period of time and it’s just prior to this that the insemination must occur. Make sure that the vet performing this procedure has had a great deal of experience and success.
Sometimes it’s necessary to do an artificial insemination even though the stud is right there and seems willing, but cannot achieve a breeding. In a case like this, you still need knowledgeable people around. It’s not enough to simply collect the semen and squirt it into the bitch. There’s a reason for the ‘tie’. It’s during the tie that the bitch’s vaginal and uterine muscles are contracting and helping to move the semen along into the uterus. Because of this the vet or technician must ‘feather’ the bitch. This involves inserting 2 or 3 fingers into the vulva as high as possible and then knotting them to simulate the stimulation she would get from a tie. It’s also a good idea to gently pull against the vulva as would happen during a real tie.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
Part IX
Pregnancy, Is She or Isn’t She?
You’ll never know how long 63 days can be until you’re waiting for your first litter! Such an exciting time and there’s much to be done while you’re girl is cooking the kids.
First you’ll want to verify that she is, indeed, pregnant. There are 3 methods of doing this. The first, oldest and least accurate, is palpation. The vet will check the bitch at approximately 28 days post breeding. He will feel the uterus through the abdominal wall in an attempt to palpate the walnut sized fetuses. In smaller breeds this is probably much more accurate but in Great Danes very difficult.
The next, and most accurate method of early pregnancy detection, is ultrasound. This test is performed at about 32 days post breeding. The bitch is laid on her side and the vet will squirt some contact jelly on her abdomen to facilitate the ‘reading’. The fetuses are difficult to see to an untrained eye. They basically look like black holes! If the vet counts 4 puppies, you can almost always count on twice that number! It’s hard to do an accurate count. [INSERT PHOTO #12-13]
The most accurate method is when a live puppy falls out of your bitch! There is no longer any doubt that she’s pregnant, but this is not early detection.
Please DO NOT X-ray your bitch in early pregnancy to check for puppies. You could do harm to the fetuses at this early stage. Only agree to X-ray during the last few days of a pregnancy if for some reason you simply have to know how many puppies there are. The other good use of X-ray is to verify that there are no more puppies after whelping. Most vets can easily palpate to verify this, making X-ray unnecessary.
When Skylark had her litter she seemed fine, all 8 babies were fine and I had no idea that there was still one more puppy up there. I just packed her and her babies up and off we went to the vets for the routine post whelping check and pit shot. The vet said she felt another puppy in her and wanted an X-ray to see how it was positioned. She wasn’t sure if it was dead or alive. I figured it must be dead after all this time. The bitch had begun to whelp around 8 PM the previous evening and it was now about 9 AM. I was quite worried as I sure didn’t want Skylark to have to go through a C-section for the last puppy!
She was given IV calcium and a pit shot to stimulate contractions and she and I went out into the van to await developments. About 20 minutes later after a couple half-hearted contractions, Dr. Eaton came out to check on her and gave her another pit shot. Suddenly here came the contractions and, hallelujah, the PUPPY! AND HE WAS ALIVE! If we hadn’t checked her it’s possible that she could have died from infection caused by that last puppy had it not passed.
So your bitch has been verified to be in whelp and it’s time to get everything ready. What will you need? What should you expect?
What to Expect During Gestation
Obviously you’ll expect your bitch to become much larger as her pregnancy progresses. Depending on the number of puppies she’s carrying, this is a reasonable expectation. Trouble is, it doesn’t always happen! Great Danes are BIG dogs and there’s a lot of room in there for puppies to hide! A bitch carrying a litter of 1 or 2 puppies may not show at all! While a bitch carrying 9 might only look to be having 2 or 3! My little Narcissus was a good example of the latter! She was a little girl to begin with, standing only about 30½ inches tall. At only a few days before whelping, I thought she’d maybe have 4 at the most. No one was more surprised than me when she had 9 puppies!
Be prepared for the possibility of a personality change. Until Skylark, all my bitches became quieter and more loving and snuggley than normal during their pregnancies. This is, of course, a nice change. Then I bred Skylark and I got an education in the power of female hormones! Lark, who was the baby in the family and had always been the omega bitch (bottom of the heap) suddenly became SUPER BITCH! She personified the word ‘bitchy’ as applied to temperament. Every time I turned around Lark was attacking one of the other bitches. Never her mother Poppy, but poor Jonquilla and Narcissus were fair game! She’d strut around the house as if it had been built for her and her alone! She’d pull herself to her full height (in her case that’s TALL) and give the two old ladies the evil eye. It got so bad that I would kennel her when I had to leave the house, even if for 15 minutes to go feed the horses. On the advice of a handler friend, I kept a large cooking spoon upstairs and downstairs. She told me that if a fight started, to shove the spoon into the mouth of the dog biting and it would let go immediately. I also kept some pepper spray on hand.
I was really devastated because I thought my sweet and silly Lark-a-Loonie, had changed into some terrible devil. Once she’d whelped and the puppies were 4 and 5 weeks of age, she began to return to the old Lark we all knew and loved.
While on this subject, I should mention a couple other things that happened to Skylark during her pregnancy. One morning about a week prior to her due date, I awoke to find Lark standing by my bed with her back kind of hunched up and her neck stretched out ahead of her. When she’d move her neck side to side she’d cry out. All I could think of was that she’d slipped a disk or something. She’d move around and ate, but you could see that certain positions were painful.
My vet examined her and asked me if I believed in chiropractors. (Now I’ve always thought they were quacks, but I believed in and trusted my vet). After expressing my opinion, I agreed to take Lark to the recommended chiropractor. Dr. Eaton said that Lark’s neck felt like it was ‘out’. When we arrived at the chiropractor’s office, she examined Lark thoroughly and had me place my hands on a place in her neck where there was an obvious ‘hole’. After adjusting Lark (very gently I might add) she warned me that she may be worse the next day but should improve by day 3. She had me feel her neck where the ‘hole’ had been and it was gone! Sure enough, day 2 found her really gimpy but day 3 she was almost back to her old self!
I had been instructed to return with Lark for one more adjustment prior to her whelping date. I had been so impressed with Lark’s improvement, that I had her adjust me too! (I’ve had low back pain for years). I improved along with Skylark.
What caused Lark’s problem? Dr. Eaton explained to me that when the pregnancy hormones begin to circulate, they cause the ligaments and soft tissues to relax to facilitate the whelping process. This affects the tissues throughout the body. In Lark’s case, she is a ‘boinger’, she’ll stand in one place and leap straight into the air about 3 or 4 feet. She’s also extremely active. This, combined with the hormones, caused her spine more flexion than it should have and it moved out of alignment.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
part X

Items You’ll Need for Your Bitch and Her Litter
1. Whelping Box
This is an enclosure where your bitch will give birth to the litter and where they’ll remain until about the age of 3-4 weeks or until they start piling out onto the floor! You can purchase one of these already made from dog supply catalogs or make your own. I know one breeder who swears by those plastic wading pools that appear in stores in the summer. Being round they’re a more natural shape for a whelping area. I might try one on my next litter. The biggest drawback I can see to them is having an easily changed and cleaned pad in the bottom.
My dad and I made my first whelping box. I think it would have held a litter of elephants, he made it so strong! It was on a base made of 2 x 4’s and a heavy plywood floor. It had sides that came up about 9 inches and then a ‘shelf’ had been run along each long side to keep the bitch from smashing a puppy against the side. (This, by the way, did not work as I extracted a couple puppies from between the wall and mom). [Some of the box shaped whelping boxes utilize ‘pig rails’. This is a heavy dowel (about the size of the pole you would find in a clothes closet) that runs the length of the box about 6 inches up from the floor and about 4 inches out from the wall. Frankly I don’t see what real good they’d do as a puppy could still become stuck between the rail and mom].
After the first litter was born and I tried to find a place to store this 300 pound thing, I decided that there must be a better way. I removed the sides of the box and fastened each short end to the long side with hinges. This allowed the short sides to fold in against the long one, and the whole thing weighted about 20 pounds! The hinges that fastened the other long side to the two short sides used hinges with removable pins. All I have to do is pull the pins and it is all collapsed and easily stored.
This four-sided ‘box’ sits directly on the floor and I have a three-inch foam pad covered in naugahyde that completely covers the foam. From old blankets and sheets I made covers for the pad. The blanket is one side and the sheet the other. It fits onto the pad like a pillowcase. There’s enough left over at the open end to tuck securely underneath the pad. The beauty of this cover is that it’s easily removed and washed and the puppies can’t become hidden under folds of a wrinkled blanket and stepped on or squashed by mom.
Put the whelping box in an area that is private. You want to keep other dogs, cats and people away from mom and her new family in the early days.
2. Tons of Newspaper!
You’ll go through a lot of this during the actual whelping. I use the whelping pad and cover and then spread a very thick layer of newspapers down. After each puppy is born, I get the bitch up, remove the soiled papers and replace with fresh. I also use newspapers for the floor once the pups are out of the box and at the end of the box at about 2½ weeks when they start to look for a place outside the nest to relieve themselves.
3. Baby Scale
Each puppy is weighed at birth. Then they are weighed daily until about the age of 10 days. Although a small loss of weight isn’t unusual during the first 24 hours, you want to see a steady gain from day to day after that.
4. Lots Of Little Terry Cloth Towels/Rags
Use these for helping to ‘pull’ a puppy from the vagina and/or for drying off newborns. A vigorous rubdown helps get the puppy crying which bring air into it’s lungs, and helps stimulate it to move around.
5. Garbage Can & Lots Of Garbage Bags
Self explanatory!
6. At Least 2 Mosquito Clamps
Use one to clamp the umbilical cord about 1” from the belly, the other to clamp about 1” past the first against the placenta and then cut the cord with dull scissors in between the 2. You can leave the one on the pup for a few seconds while you dry it and then remove.
7. Dull Children’s Scissors
When the bitch bites the cord off, it isn’t a clean cut, which means it bleeds very little. The dull craft scissors used by kids imitate this type of cut.
8. Heating Pad
I use this in conjunction with the box below. I place the heating pad over only ½ of the box bottom, under a towel. This way the puppies can move off it if it’s too hot. As each puppy is born, it’s given to mom to nurse. The nursing helps stimulate contractions. As another puppy is about to be born, I put all the previous puppies in the box to keep them from getting in the way. Once the puppy is safely delivered, he and all his siblings are returned to mom until the next pup comes along. This is also used in the box when transporting the puppies to the vet for their post whelping exam and for dewclaw removal at 2 days of age.
9. Card Board Box For Pups
A sturdy box about 18 by 24 inches with sides about 18 inches high, is about right. It makes a handy puppy carrier and a place to corral them while changing their bed.
10. Rectal Thermometer
Use this to monitor your bitch’s temperature beginning about 3 days prior to the expected whelping date. When the temperature drops to below 99 (sometimes as low as 97 degrees F) you can be pretty sure that she’ll go into labor within 24 hours. Also monitor her temperature for a couple weeks post whelping to head off trouble.
11. Clock
Note the time (in writing, you’ll be too nervous to remember!) when each puppy is born. If the bitch goes much more than 3 hours between puppies, you should give your vet a call. It might be fine, but let’s not take chances.
12. Writing Pen
Obvious!
13. Different Colored Rickrack
I tie this around the necks of each puppy for identification. If you have a litter of all fawns, it really helps. Be sure and check how tight the collars are daily. These babies grow FAST!
13. Puppy Charts
I make a chart that contains the following information to be filled out as each puppy is born.
ID collar (I put a collar of colored rickrack around the neck of each puppy as it’s born. In a litter of 10 fawns, this will help you keep track of who is who!)
Time Whelped
Sex
Color of puppy
Weight
I make a drawing of a puppy on its back and then fill in all white markings (other markings in the case of harls of course!) Helps with ID if the collar comes off.
14. Lots of Sleep Prior To Whelping!
I sleep within ear shot of my new litters so I can hear if someone is getting squashed or is lost or something. Some people sleep right next to the whelping box.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART XI

When Birth is Imminent
As mentioned above, once the bitches temperature has dropped, whelping will commence usually within 24 hours. She’ll probably do a lot of panting. She might even strain or appear to be having contractions. She might then decide to go back to sleep now that she’s got you all nervous and upset!
I’ve probably missed my bitch’s first whelps as often as not! Jonquilla did the above ‘gee, guess I’ll go back to sleep now’ act and then proceeded to have her first puppy in her crate next to my bed! Daffodil gave no indication at all. We just went to bed and the next morning I awoke just as Daffi was getting off the bed crying, while a puppy was dropping out of her! (Poor little Kiwi was rudely awakened from fetal peace and comfort as she hit the bricks of the fireplace with her head!) (Hmmmm, maybe that’s why she was so silly!) And still another first puppy (Jonquilla again!) was born in one of my shoes in the closet! Jonquilla was the easiest whelper I’ve ever had! She didn’t even strain. Suddenly a puppy was coming out and by the time I could grab it, Quillie had it all cleaned, placenta eaten and was pushing it onto a nipple to have its first meal!
Digging is very popular with most bitches, sometimes beginning soon after they’re bred! But once contractions begin, digging begins in earnest. If you have a safe place outdoors (by safe I mean where they can’t sneak off in the dark and have the puppies under a bush somewhere) it’s helpful to allow them to go outside and dig, under supervision of course. This seems to help the contractions along. Otherwise, they’ll be content to just dig up the newspapers you’ve so neatly spread in the whelping box.
As a puppy enters the birth canal, most bitches have several strong contractions, often accompanied by grunts. You’ll see the vulva enlarge as the sac is presented and then out will come a puppy. If the bitch shows interest, allow her to clean off the sack and lick the puppy. If she doesn’t do this right away, you need to clear the sack away from the puppies face immediately. If the placenta is present, clamp the cord about 1 inch from the puppy’s body with one mosquito clamp and again next to the placenta. Then take the scissors and cut between the clamps. Leave both in place. The one on the placenta until you can dump it. If you don’t, it will leak blood all over. The one on the puppy can stay until you’ve dried the puppy with the towels. Then remove the clamp. Be careful not to pull on the clamp and cause a hernia. (My own belief about umbilical hernias is that they’re inherited).
If the puppy’s breathing sounds very wet, hold the puppy upside down and support its head. Then extend your arms straight out from your body and quickly swing the puppy downward between your legs. The centrifugal force will help to clear fluid from the puppy’s airways.
Next weigh the puppy and record all the information on the chart. Don’t forget its rickrack. Puppy can now go on to mom and nurse until the next one starts to come. This will continue until the entire litter is born.
You can usually assume that the bitch is finished when she contentedly (and tiredly!) stretches out on her side and sleeps. Regardless of how certain you are that she’s finished, you should still take her and the litter into the vet to be checked. Giving a pituitrin shot to the bitch is always a good idea as it helps to clean out the uterine debris. Please don’t do as some breeders do and keep pituitrin on hand to give at home. If there’s a malpositioned puppy still in there, the bitch could rupture her uterus with the help of the pit shot. Making sure she’s finished is very important.
It’s a good idea to continue to monitor the bitch’s temperature for a week or to post whelping. Any rise above normal is a signal to get her to your vet. She could be getting an infection or going into eclampsia (milk fever), either of which could kill both her and the puppies.
Keep a close eye on the litter also. A quiet litter is a content litter. Constant fussing and the inability to settle down, can indicate a problem. It isn’t uncommon for the puppies to go through a period of yellowish diarrhea sometime in the first week. A little is nothing to worry about and will usually clear up on it’s own as their systems become used to digesting milk. But if the diarrhea is green or very smelly, call the vet.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART XII

Raising the Litter
The first 2 weeks of life are a breeze for you and constant work for the bitch! She cleans the puppies, feeds them and keeps them warm. [INSERT PHOTO #12-14] Her licking stimulates them and is even necessary for the first week or so in order for them to eliminate. Once they’ve had a day or two with their puppies, most Great Dane bitches are fantastic mothers, careful and loving of their puppies. They can also be very protective. Don’t be surprised if your formally easy going girl becomes a tiger where her babies are concerned. [INSERT PHOTO #12-27] Certainly she must allow you to handle them, but if she refuses other family members early on, don’t push it. Once the puppies are two to three weeks old, most bitches will become more relaxed about leaving them and allowing other people to touch them. Strangers are still a no-no. If people come over to see the litter, either remove the bitch to a place where she’s contained and cannot see what’s going on, or only allow them to stand outside the room and look in.
Be careful about allowing other dogs in with her and the litter. Some bitches might really resent this. However, I've had some really cute mother/daughter teams raise the litter together! Daffodil did this when her daughter, Kiwi, had her litter. I’d find the two of them in the whelping box together. Daffi trying to roll the puppies around and play with them while Kiwi was nursing them.
I base my decision to begin supplementing the puppies based on their body condition and the mothers milk supply. Cricket had milk 10 days prior to whelping. So MUCH milk, that when she’d lay down, little milk fountains would spurt from her breasts! Her babies were rolling fat balls! At 4½ weeks old I decided to start them on solid food more so I could get some weight off of them!
Then there was Skylark’s litter. Besides all the other problems Lark had that I mentioned above, she also had 2 others. Her uterine cramping continued for so long, and so severely, that she was seldom comfortable enough to lie still and let her puppies nurse. Even when they did nurse, she had very little milk. This resulted in very thin babies whom I began supplementing at the age of 2 weeks! (Oh, what a mess trying to get eight 2 week olds, who have barely begun to wobble around on their legs, to drink from a bowl!) But drink they did, and they are now fine! Needless to say, Larkie has been spayed! I refuse to put her through all that again.
In normal litters, supplementation usually begins around 3 weeks. I’ll start them on a bitches milk replacer mixed with some baby rice cereal. It’s mixed to the consistency of uncongealed pudding at first. Little by little I add ground up (in the food processor) kibble and canned Eagle Brand Beef, Liver or Chicken and Rice. I start them right out on what I feed the adults, which is Innova kibble and Eagle Brand canned.
By the time they’re about 4 weeks, they’re eating whole, soaked kibble, and by 6 weeks, the kibble is no longer soaked before feeding. Since I feed the litter together out of several bowls, it’s difficult to tell exactly how much each puppy is eating. A six week old Dane puppy will likely be eating 1½ to 2 cups three times a day. By the age of 7 weeks, most of my litters were only picking at their lunch meal. When that occurs, they’re shifted over to 2 meals a day. [INSERT PHOTO # 12-18]
The best way to judge if your puppy is eating enough (or too much!) is by his body condition. Dane puppies should be kept lean on a top quality food. You want to be able to barely see their ribs, but feel them easily. I know that most of us are anxious for our Danes to become huge. But please don’t get hung up on the weight/height issue as your puppy grows. Early size and weight are NOT indicative of adult size and weight. Some of my smallest puppies have ended up as the biggest adults. And size isn’t everything. Overall quality is far more important for a show dog.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART XIII

Selling/Placing Your Dane Puppies
As you well know by now, Great Danes are not for everyone. It is up to you, as the breeder, to do all you can to ensure that your puppies are placed in homes where they will happily remain for life. You can accomplish this by thoroughly screening your potential puppy buyers.
But first, people need to know that you have a litter available. If this is your first litter, you will probably have a little more trouble in placing the puppies than breeders with an established reputation. It’s best, of course, if you have a list of people waiting for your puppies. But how do you reach these people? DO NOT advertise in the local paper. Although you can certainly find occasional good homes this way, they’ll most likely be pet homes. This is also fine, but you’ve bred this litter to acquire show puppies. The best show potential puppy in the world won’t earn its championship in someone’s back yard!
Start with an advertisement in Great Dane Reporter Magazine. This magazine has a very wide distribution and people all over the world will see your ad. Include a good picture of both parents and the pedigree. You might also want to include an appealing picture of the puppies themselves. It’s hard to resist a great puppy picture. [INSERT PHOTO #12-29] Don’t forget to include your phone number and an email address if you have one.
The Internet is a fantastic tool for advertising your litter. I have received many more inquiries than I have puppies. When this happens I simply refer to other breeders. I’ve found that the people who see my website and then contact me about a puppy are very sincere, and extremely interested in obtaining a Great Dane puppy. They’ve done a lot of research and realize how important health and temperament is in this breed. To date, seven of my puppies have gone to live with people who first contacted me vie the Internet. All these people have also become good friends and are wonderful homes for my puppies.
Ask for references from other breeders they have purchased from. Even if this is a breeder you’ve known casually at the shows for years, ask questions and ask for references! I’m sorry to say that some of my WORST homes have been long time breeders! I’ve made the mistake of referring people looking for puppies to breeders whom I thought had a good reputation only to find out later that they did no health checks at all! Don’t rely on reputation, find out for yourself.
Before you start asking questions, tell them everything that is wrong with the breed. Short life span, health problems, temperament problems in some lines, food requirements, destructive ability, etc. I always do this and if the person is still interested, I start asking the questions.
Ask all the questions you were asked by the breeder from whom you purchased your first puppy. Do you have a fenced yard? Will he be a house dog? Can you afford an emergency bloat surgery that could cost up to $3000.00 and would you have it done if necessary? Will you have a heart attack if the dog eats your couch/trees/shoes/fill-in-the-blank? Are you willing to spend a lot of time properly socializing and training the dog? Do you have a set up so the dog isn’t spending 24 hours a day in his crate? Basically put the potential new owner through the same third degree outlined in Chapter 4.
If you’re selling a puppy for show, please realize that by having one of your best show puppies in a good show home, you’re utilizing the best advertising possible. Nothing upsets me more than having some new owner come to me with their inferior show hopeful. Once again some unscrupulous breeder has sold an inferior specimen as show. As long as you’re reasonably certain that his is a good show home, you have nothing to lose and everything to gain by placing your superior pups in great show homes.
You can tell a lot about a person’s attitude towards the dogs by the way they interact with them. I’m always suspicious of the person who stands away from the dogs with their arms folded over their chest. I really like it when someone gets down on the floor with the litter and lets them crawl all over them. These are the true dog people! You also need to like the people that buy your puppies. When someone buys a Sunnyside puppy, they also become a member of the family. Whether they buy a pet or show puppy, I want close contact with them until the day that puppy dies of old age! I bug them for information about how the puppy is doing, photos and require them to contact me if they have any questions or problems at any time. My contract stipulates that if they ever have to get rid of the dog, it either comes back to me or I have final say as to its new home.

Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


FAINOMENON

Well-Known Member
11 Σεπτεμβρίου 2008
879
3
Ireland
PART XIV

‘Pick of Litter’ & What Price For a New Friend?
I cannot tell you how much you should charge for your puppies. The fact is you will not make up all you’ve put into them. But at the same time, it’s nice to recoup some of the expenses as well as giving them a value in the eyes of their future owner. Here in California in 1998, a show potential puppy will sell from between $1000.00 to $1500.00. That may or may not be cropped. Pets can be found for from $450.00 to $1000.00. I would suggest that you ask some of your fellow breeders what they charge and then make up your mind.
I have been known to simply place a puppy in a home I know to be a great one and take much less for the puppy. A good home is the most important thing to me when I place my babies. Sometimes a puppy will be placed on a co-ownership or for one or 2 puppies back. These are all arrangements you must decide on at the time. Co-ownerships can be tricky and many friends have become enemies over these issues. This is one reason a contract is imperative! When I run into problems with a co-ownership (and I rarely have), I always make my choices in favor of the friendship. It isn’t worth losing a friendship over the decision of which stud to breed the bitch to. I consider every co-owned bitch to be the sole property of her owner and the owner always has the final say. So what if I prefer she be bred to a different stud? Her owner is my friend and I intend to keep it that way!
Packing Puppy’s Suitcase
Hopefully you have already given the owner-to-be a lot of information about the puppy and the breed. When the time comes for the puppy to go to his new home, an information packet is very helpful.
Registration Application – This is the ‘blue slip’ that the new owner will send into the AKC to register the puppy. If you want your kennel name to appear as part of the puppy’s name, or you have a certain name you wish to give the puppy, you should agree on this prior to giving the owner this document. Sometimes I’ll pre-register the entire litter so there is no room for argument about a name. AKC’s position is that the owner has the right to name the dog.
Pedigree – 5 generations
Care and feeding sheet. (Feel free to use either one in whole or part. See below).
Contract – also includes a record of all vaccines and wormings the puppy has had and when the next are due. My contract appears in its entirety in Chapter 4.
Copyright 2002, Jill Swedlow. Sunnyside Danes. All rights reserved
 


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