Τελικά, είναι από specialty show για εργασιακά (Τρεχαγυρευόπουλος δηλαδή).
Από πότε έχουν άλλο πρότυπο τα εργασιακά; (ρητορική ερώτηση)
Από πότε έχουν άλλο πρότυπο τα εργασιακά; (ρητορική ερώτηση)
The colors of the Siberian Husky
- Thread starter Michalis-Maya
- Ημερομηνία δημιουργίας
Αντε να δουμε ποτε θα μαθουν να τραβανε βιντεο σε landscape orientation :x
Στα αποτελέσματα πάντως βλέπω πως υπάρχει και working class.
Και σήμερα δλδ είχε 2 συμμετοχές.
https://www.nkk.no/nkk-utstilling-resultater/utstilling/151001/search?raid=157
Μαζί δλδ με την open,junior,champion, veteran κλπ, υπάρχει και αυτή η κατηγορία.
Και σήμερα δλδ είχε 2 συμμετοχές.
https://www.nkk.no/nkk-utstilling-resultater/utstilling/151001/search?raid=157
Μαζί δλδ με την open,junior,champion, veteran κλπ, υπάρχει και αυτή η κατηγορία.
Τώρα που βλέπω το βίντεο για εργασιακή γραμμή δεν είναι άσχημο. νομίζω στο άλλο το αδηκεί η φωτογραφία. Δλδ στο βίντεο που δεν έχει καμπουριάσει αλλά περπατάει κανονικά φαίνεται ενα νορμαλ γεροδεμένο εργασιακό χάσκυ.
Μιχάλη, πρέπει να αιτηθείς αλλαγή του τίτλου του θέματος.
Ποιό "χρώμα"; Εδώ έχεις στήσει ολόκληρη ωδή, για husky.
Τα πάντα όλα!!!
Ποιό "χρώμα"; Εδώ έχεις στήσει ολόκληρη ωδή, για husky.
Τα πάντα όλα!!!
Είναι από τα θέματα που βγαίνοντας "off topic", έγινε πληρέστερο
Ευχαριστώ τα υπόλοιπα μέλη για τις "πάσες".
Α, και μόλις έγινες νονά του θέματος
Και φυσικά από ένα τέτοιο θέμα, δεν θα μπορούσε να λείπει ο θρύλος της φυλής:
Leonhard Seppala
Ούτε βέβαια ο Togo
Leonhard Seppala
Ούτε βέβαια ο Togo
The Siberian Husky was originated by the Chukchi people of northeastern Asia as an endurance sled dog.
When changing conditions forced these semi-nomadic natives to expand their hunting grounds, they responded by developing a unique breed of sled dog, which met their special requirements and upon which their very survival depended.
The Chukchis needed a sled dog capable of traveling great distances at a moderate speed, carrying a light load in low temperatures with a minimum expenditure of energy.
Research indicates that the Chukchis maintained the purity of their sled dogs through the 19th century and that these dogs were the sole and direct ancestors of the breed known in the United States today as the Siberian Husky.
Shortly after 1900, Americans in Alaska began to hear accounts of this superior strain of sled dog in Siberia. The first team of Siberian Huskies made its appearance in the All Alaska Sweepstakes Race of 1909.
The same year, a large number of them were imported to Alaska by Charles Fox Maule Ramsay, and his team, driven by John "Iron Man" Johnson, won the grueling 400-mile race in 1910. For the next decade, Siberian Huskies, particularly those bred and raced by Leonhard Seppala, captured most of the racing titles in Alaska, where the rugged terrain was ideally suited to the endurance capabilities of the breed.
In 1925, the city of Nome, Alaska, was stricken by a diphtheria epidemic and supplies of antitoxin were urgently needed. Many sled dog drivers, including Mr. Seppala, were called upon to relay the lifesaving serum to Nome by dog team.
This heroic "serum run" focused attention upon Siberian Huskies, and Seppala brought his dogs to the United States on a personal appearance tour.
While here, he was invited to compete in sled dog races in New England, where the sport had already been introduced. The superior racing ability and delightful temperament of Seppala's Siberian Huskies won the respect and the hearts of sportsmen from Alaska to New England.
It was through the efforts of these pioneer fanciers that the breed was established in the United States and that AKC recognition was granted in 1930. Many Siberian Huskies were assembled and trained at Chinook Kennels in New Hampshire for use on the Byrd Antarctic Expeditions. Dogs of the breed also served valiantly in the Army's Arctic Search and Rescue Unit of the Air Transport Command during World War II.
Demidoff Kenmare Sundance for Victory
Καλοκαιρινή ενδυμασία (στεγνό τελείως από υπόστρωμα)
Καλοκαιρινή ενδυμασία (στεγνό τελείως από υπόστρωμα)
SIZE AND WEIGHT :
Height at withers :
Dogs: 21 to 23, 5 inches (53,5 - 60 cm).
Females : 20 to 22 inches (50,5 - 56 cm).
Weight :
Dogs : 45 to 60 pounds (20,5 - 28 kg).
Females : 35 to 50 pounds (15,5 - 23 kg).
Weight is in proportion to height. The measurements mentioned
above represent the extreme height and weight limits with no
preference given to either extreme. Any appearance of excessive
bone or weight should be penalized.
Δυστυχώς, ο κόσμος έχει πολύ λάθος εντύπωση για το μέγεθος της φυλής.
Το Husky είναι σκύλος μεσαίου μεγέθους, με το μέσο όρο των αρσενικών στα 24 κιλά και ύψος στους ώμους τους 56 πόντους. Ανίστοιχα τα θηλυκά έχουν μέσω όρο τα 19 κιλά και τους 53 πόντους.
Το τελικό μέγεθος τους ολοκληρώνεται γύρω στους 18-24 μήνες. Πιο γρήγορα ολοκληρώνουν την ανάπτυξή τους τα θηλυκά.
Height at withers :
Dogs: 21 to 23, 5 inches (53,5 - 60 cm).
Females : 20 to 22 inches (50,5 - 56 cm).
Weight :
Dogs : 45 to 60 pounds (20,5 - 28 kg).
Females : 35 to 50 pounds (15,5 - 23 kg).
Weight is in proportion to height. The measurements mentioned
above represent the extreme height and weight limits with no
preference given to either extreme. Any appearance of excessive
bone or weight should be penalized.
Δυστυχώς, ο κόσμος έχει πολύ λάθος εντύπωση για το μέγεθος της φυλής.
Το Husky είναι σκύλος μεσαίου μεγέθους, με το μέσο όρο των αρσενικών στα 24 κιλά και ύψος στους ώμους τους 56 πόντους. Ανίστοιχα τα θηλυκά έχουν μέσω όρο τα 19 κιλά και τους 53 πόντους.
Το τελικό μέγεθος τους ολοκληρώνεται γύρω στους 18-24 μήνες. Πιο γρήγορα ολοκληρώνουν την ανάπτυξή τους τα θηλυκά.
Α ρε κάτι χάσκουρες
Μιχάλη να σε ρωτήσω.
Γράφεις
Μυς + σκελετός.
Και όχι πως τότε σταματάει να ψηλώνει πχ.
Ετσι δεν είναι;
Μιχάλη να σε ρωτήσω.
Γράφεις
Λέγοντας "τελικό μέγεθος" να υποθέσω πως αναφέρεσαι στο λεγόμενο "δέσιμο" του σκύλου.
Μυς + σκελετός.
Και όχι πως τότε σταματάει να ψηλώνει πχ.
Ετσι δεν είναι;
Όχι, εννοώ ότι τότε σταματάει και να ψηλώνει.
Το τελικό ύψος έρχεται νωρίτερα από το τελικό βάρος. Δηλαδή, έστω ότι το τελικό ύψος έρχεται στους πχ. 18 μήνες, θα παίρνει βάρος το σκυλί μέχρι πχ. τους 24, ώστε να φτάσει το ιδανικό συνδυασμό ύψους/βάρους. Μετά είναι στο χέρι του ιδιοκτήτη να διατηρήσει το βάρος εκεί
Αφήνω αυτό εδώ για την ώρα και θα επανέρθω, αν δεν με προλάβει δηλαδή ο Μιχάλης που το έχει καλύτεραΤι ακριβως βλεπουμε εδω Μιχαλη(Μιχαληδες
XασκοκωλαράκιαΤι ακριβως βλεπουμε εδω Μιχαλη(Μιχαληδες
Πίσω γωνιώσεις διακρίνω Κώστα
Επειδή κρίνουμε πάντα με βάση το πρότυπο της φυλής μας, θα μου επιτρέψετε προσωπικά να μην σχολιάσω γιατί απλούστατα ΔΕΝ την γνωρίζω την φυλή.
Δεν ξέρω πόσο είναι το "well" που ζητείται.
Αυτό το βρίσκεις αν ψαχουλέψεις την ιστορία και την χρησιμότητα.
Κάθε τι έχει τη σημασία του.
Επίσης γενικά συνυπολογίζουμε ΚΑΙ το μπροστινό για χάριν αρμονίας.
Μπροστά και πίσω σύστημα πρέπει να συνεργάζονται και όχι το ένα να λειτουργεί εις βάρος του άλλου.
Συνεπώς και κρίνοντας από το τί ζητείται για το μπροστινό, μπορείς να βγάλεις ένα συμπέρασμα για το πόσο "well" είναι το πίσω.
Δεν είναι πάντα το μεγαλύτερο το καλύτερο.
Κοιτάς τον σκύλο σαν σύνολο, με γνώμονα το πως θα ανταπεξέλθει καλύτερα και με τον λιγότερο δυνατό κόπο στην εργασία του - όποια και να ήταν αυτή.
Κάθε φυλή έχει τα δικά της, οπότε εγώ πάω πάσο...
FOREQUARTERS : When standing and viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced, parallel and straight. Bone is substantial but never heavy. Length of the leg from the elbow to ground is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the top of withers. Dewclaws on forelegs may be removed.
Shoulders and arm : The shoulder blade is well laid back. The upper arm angles slightly backward from point of shoulder to elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well developed.
Elbows : Close to the body and turned neither in nor out.
Pastern joint : Strong, but flexible.
Pasterns : Viewed from the side, pasterns are slightly slanted.
HINDQUARTERS : When standing and viewed from the rear, the hind legs are moderately spaced and parallel. Dewclaws, if any, are to be removed.
Upper thigh : Well muscled and powerful.
Stifle : Well bent.
Hock joint : Well defined and set low to ground.
FEET : Oval in shape but not long. The paws are medium in size, compact and well furred between the toes and pads. The pads are tough and thickly cushioned. The paws neither turn in nor out when the dog is in natural stance.
A prespective on the breed standard
Hindquarters
Viewed from rear, hindlegs moderately spaced and parallel. Upper thighs well muscled and powerful, stifles well bent, hock joint well defined and set low to the ground. Dewclaws, if any, should be removed.
• Hindlegs moderately spaced and parallel. A similar explanation as for the front legs but perhaps even more important. The drive-train of the dog, the power to put to work the dog’s effort as it sets off in harness is focused on to the rear legs. These must, therefore, be correctly spaced and parallel to avoid reduction of efficiency. Hind legs set too wide and the will dog move awkwardly perhaps even “waddle” and indeed, if the legs are too close, then a “mincing” effect will become apparent – either way power will be lost when the dog tries to correct its course.
• Upper thighs well muscled and powerful – an argument that the purely show orientated owner may get annoyed about, but these muscles will never be quite so well formed unless the dog works. Oh and a treadmill (yes, I do know of Siberians who have their own gymnasium) won’t achieve the ultimate results either. Without good muscle achieved under working conditions, the drive of the dog will be diminished. Thus an exhibitor must always try to the best of their ability to present their dog in condition fit for purpose. If working the dog is not an option, then good exercise must be considered vital – giving in at the first fence is not an option.
• Stifles well bent – without the correct angulation at this point, your dog will not have the “thrust” needed for good propulsion. With the correct angle the projection of the dog on point-loading (pushing off from a standing start) will be forwards. A dog with straight stifles will waste a percentage of this propulsion lifting itself off the ground into the air. Or in other words a dit-dit dog – one that moves around the ring with stiff movement dit-ditting up and down, going nowhere and not very fast either. That said, too much angulation will create a weak point and the integrity of the dog’s structure is affected … but here we are back at the beginning, the dog should be balanced to be correct and a correctly formed dog will prove the most efficient worker. Some Siberians can be termed “boxy” at the rear, ie., the base of the tail is in a direct perpendicular line with the hock, this too is incorrect and causes a loss of drive as again the dog will push from its rear, but travel upwards instead of forwards. That said, angles should not be so severe as to take on the look of a GSD as too much flex will reduce the power and strength of the rear drive.
• Hock well defined and set low to the ground – the hocks are linked in with the requirement for the placing of hindlegs, hence should be parallel when viewed from the rear. That said, working enthusiasts will argue that a good working dog will tend to stand as if slightly cow-hocked in the same way a sprinter will tense at “on-your-marks-get-set” and “lean” into a starting position. This conjecture will be proven when the dog is gaiting as the hocks should level out on the move, but safe to say, true cow hocks will affect efficiency and, of course, this joint must be flexible in order for the stifles to operate properly. The standard calls for the hock to be set low to the ground, care should be taken, however, that the hock is not too short – it should be remembered any variance from a flexible, strong joint will be detrimental to the dog’s movement – both on the trail and, of course, in the show ring.
Hindquarters
Viewed from rear, hindlegs moderately spaced and parallel. Upper thighs well muscled and powerful, stifles well bent, hock joint well defined and set low to the ground. Dewclaws, if any, should be removed.
• Hindlegs moderately spaced and parallel. A similar explanation as for the front legs but perhaps even more important. The drive-train of the dog, the power to put to work the dog’s effort as it sets off in harness is focused on to the rear legs. These must, therefore, be correctly spaced and parallel to avoid reduction of efficiency. Hind legs set too wide and the will dog move awkwardly perhaps even “waddle” and indeed, if the legs are too close, then a “mincing” effect will become apparent – either way power will be lost when the dog tries to correct its course.
• Upper thighs well muscled and powerful – an argument that the purely show orientated owner may get annoyed about, but these muscles will never be quite so well formed unless the dog works. Oh and a treadmill (yes, I do know of Siberians who have their own gymnasium) won’t achieve the ultimate results either. Without good muscle achieved under working conditions, the drive of the dog will be diminished. Thus an exhibitor must always try to the best of their ability to present their dog in condition fit for purpose. If working the dog is not an option, then good exercise must be considered vital – giving in at the first fence is not an option.
• Stifles well bent – without the correct angulation at this point, your dog will not have the “thrust” needed for good propulsion. With the correct angle the projection of the dog on point-loading (pushing off from a standing start) will be forwards. A dog with straight stifles will waste a percentage of this propulsion lifting itself off the ground into the air. Or in other words a dit-dit dog – one that moves around the ring with stiff movement dit-ditting up and down, going nowhere and not very fast either. That said, too much angulation will create a weak point and the integrity of the dog’s structure is affected … but here we are back at the beginning, the dog should be balanced to be correct and a correctly formed dog will prove the most efficient worker. Some Siberians can be termed “boxy” at the rear, ie., the base of the tail is in a direct perpendicular line with the hock, this too is incorrect and causes a loss of drive as again the dog will push from its rear, but travel upwards instead of forwards. That said, angles should not be so severe as to take on the look of a GSD as too much flex will reduce the power and strength of the rear drive.
• Hock well defined and set low to the ground – the hocks are linked in with the requirement for the placing of hindlegs, hence should be parallel when viewed from the rear. That said, working enthusiasts will argue that a good working dog will tend to stand as if slightly cow-hocked in the same way a sprinter will tense at “on-your-marks-get-set” and “lean” into a starting position. This conjecture will be proven when the dog is gaiting as the hocks should level out on the move, but safe to say, true cow hocks will affect efficiency and, of course, this joint must be flexible in order for the stifles to operate properly. The standard calls for the hock to be set low to the ground, care should be taken, however, that the hock is not too short – it should be remembered any variance from a flexible, strong joint will be detrimental to the dog’s movement – both on the trail and, of course, in the show ring.
Γιατί είναι απαραίτητη η σωστή περιποίηση του γούνας
